Ciudad Perdida

Ciudad Perdida — "the Lost City" — is the pre-Hispanic capital of the Tairona civilization in northern Colombia's Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, founded around 800 AD and abandoned after the Spanish conquest. The hilltop site of stone terraces, ceremonial circles, and 1,200 staircase steps was unknown to outsiders until tomb-robbers rediscovered it in 1972; today, it's reached only by a 44 km, 4-day jungle trek from the village of El Mamey east of Santa Marta — there is no road, no train, no shortcut.

The walk is conventionally booked as a 4-day round trip with one of four authorised local operators based in Santa Marta. Day 1 climbs steeply from Mamey through hot, humid lowland forest with several river crossings to the first camp at Adán. Day 2 follows the Buritaca river upstream through cloud forest to Camp Paraíso, passing several indigenous Wiwa and Kogi villages — the Sierra Nevada is still home to four descendant peoples who consider the city sacred. Day 3 starts pre-dawn for the 1,200-step climb to Teyuna at 1,300 m, where you spend the morning among the terraces with the resident archaeologist, then descend back to Mumake. Day 4 retraces the lower section to Mamey and the road to Santa Marta. Cumulative climb across the trek is around 2,700 m.

The trek is open year-round except for the indigenous-mandated closure in September, when the Kogi mamos perform purification ceremonies on the site. The four authorised operators (Magic Tour, Expotur, Wiwa Tour, Turcol) charge a fixed government-set rate (around 2 million pesos, ~$500 USD as of 2025) for the all-inclusive 4-day trip — meals, hammocks at camps with mosquito nets, guide, and the entrance fee. Independent trekking is not permitted; the operators are part of an agreement with the indigenous communities. The trek is physically demanding (humid jungle heat, river crossings, steep climbs) but technically easy — most reasonably fit walkers complete it without trouble. Bring quick-dry clothes, mosquito repellent, and a head torch for the pre-dawn city climb.